The History of Engagement Rings: A Symbol of Love Through the Ages
The engagement ring is one of the most recognisable symbols of love and commitment in Western culture, but its origins stretch back far beyond the glint of modern diamonds. From ancient civilisations to 20th-century marketing revolutions, the evolution of the engagement ring tells a rich story of romance, social change, and jewellery design.
Ancient Beginnings: From Rome with Love
The concept of giving a ring to signify betrothal can be traced to Ancient Rome. Roman engagement rings were often simple iron bands, symbolising a binding contract rather than romantic love. Wealthier Romans might commission rings of gold, but the sentiment remained practical—marriage was primarily a legal arrangement. Interestingly, Romans wore engagement rings on the fourth finger of the left hand, believing a vein—vena amoris—ran directly to the heart, a belief that endures today.
Medieval Europe: A Token of Devotion
By the Middle Ages, engagement rings began to carry more emotional significance. The first documented use of a diamond in an engagement ring is often attributed to Archduke Maximilian of Austria, who proposed to Mary of Burgundy in 1477 with a gold ring set with flat-cut diamonds arranged in an ‘M’. Though diamonds were rare and reserved for royalty or the nobility, their symbolic association with strength and permanence made them an ideal choice.
In the 13th and 14th centuries, engagement rings sometimes featured religious inscriptions or were used in betrothal ceremonies, especially in Christian contexts. Rings with poesy (poetry) inscriptions in French or Latin became fashionable, engraved with romantic verses or religious messages.
Georgian to Victorian Eras: Sentiment and Style
During the Georgian period (1714–1837), sentimental jewellery flourished. Engagement rings became more decorative, often set with coloured gemstones like Garnet, Sapphire, or Emerald in closed-back settings. These rings might incorporate symbolic motifs such as hearts, bows, or acrostic arrangements—where the first letter of each gemstone spelled out a word like “REGARD” (Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Ruby, Diamond).
The Victorian era (1837–1901) was especially influential in shaping engagement ring traditions. The discovery of diamond mines in South Africa in the late 1800s made diamonds more accessible to the middle classes. Queen Victoria’s own romantic and personal approach to jewellery—including her serpent-shaped engagement ring from Prince Albert—popularised sentimental and symbolic designs across Europe.
Art Deco & Edwardian Glamour
The early 20th century saw dramatic stylistic changes in engagement rings. Edwardian rings (1901–1910) were typically delicate, crafted in platinum with fine filigree work and old European-cut diamonds. Lace-like settings and intricate craftsmanship reflected the era’s elegant aesthetics.
Art Deco rings from the 1920s and 1930s embraced bold geometry, symmetry, and contrast. Diamonds were often paired with brightly coloured gemstones like Onyx, Sapphire, and Ruby. Platinum remained the preferred metal, valued for its strength and lustre. These vintage rings remain highly sought after for their glamour and unique craftsmanship.
The De Beers Effect: “A Diamond is Forever”
Perhaps the most defining moment in the modern engagement ring story came in 1947 when De Beers launched its iconic marketing campaign: “A Diamond is Forever.” This slogan transformed the diamond engagement ring from a luxury to a near-universal expectation in the West. De Beers’ campaign cleverly linked diamonds with eternal love, boosting demand and reshaping engagement traditions worldwide.
The post-war boom years of the 1950s and 1960s saw the rise of the classic solitaire diamond ring, often set in white gold or platinum. It was elegant, timeless, and in keeping with the clean lines and optimism of the era.
Modern Trends & Vintage Resurgence
In recent decades, engagement ring styles have diversified. Coloured gemstones, alternative cuts, ethical sourcing, and bespoke designs are all in demand. Many couples now seek rings with personal meaning, often turning to vintage and antique jewellery for its character, sustainability, and superior craftsmanship.
Vintage engagement rings—from Edwardian filigree settings to 1970s bold gold designs—offer a tangible link to the past, each with its own story. They also align with modern values, blending uniqueness with heritage and sustainability.
Conclusion: More Than a Ring
The history of the engagement ring is a journey through love, craftsmanship, and cultural change. From iron bands in ancient Rome to glittering Edwardian platinum settings and sleek modern solitaires, these rings have always symbolised more than status—they represent a promise, a partnership, and a moment in time.
Whether you choose a vintage Art Deco diamond, a coloured gemstone from the Georgian era, or a sustainable modern creation, an engagement ring is a wearable piece of history—and a lasting declaration of love.