The History of Rubies in Jewellery: A Legacy of Passion and Prestige

From ancient civilisations to Art Deco masterpieces, rubies have long held a place of honour in the world of jewellery. Their rich red hue, often associated with passion, power, and protection, has captivated royalty, collectors, and jewellery lovers for centuries. In the world of vintage jewellery, ruby pieces are among the most prized and enduringly elegant.

Origins and Ancient Symbolism

Rubies have been mined and treasured for over 2,500 years, with early deposits found in Sri Lanka, Burma (modern-day Myanmar), and parts of India. In Sanskrit, the ruby was called ratnaraj, or “king of precious stones.” Ancient Hindus believed that offering rubies to the god Krishna would ensure rebirth as an emperor. Meanwhile, in Burma, warriors believed rubies made them invincible in battle.

The gem’s fiery red colour, caused by traces of chromium, symbolised vitality and was believed to possess protective powers. In both Eastern and Western traditions, rubies were associated with the heart and blood, representing both physical health and emotional strength.

Rubies in Medieval and Renaissance Jewellery

During the Middle Ages, rubies were highly sought after by European royalty and clergy. They were thought to bring good fortune, dispel evil thoughts, and foster love and harmony. These beliefs made them ideal for religious and courtly jewellery alike. Medieval ruby rings, often set in high karat yellow gold, were not only a display of wealth but also worn as talismans.

By the Renaissance, rubies remained at the forefront of gemstone jewellery. Wealthy patrons commissioned elaborate ruby necklaces, brooches, and rings, frequently combining them with pearls, emeralds, and diamonds. Many of these antique ruby jewels were crafted in intricate goldwork, reflecting both the artistry of the time and the gem’s symbolic power.

Georgian and Victorian Ruby Jewellery

In the Georgian period (1714–1837), natural rubies were set in closed-back mountings, often foiled to enhance their colour. Georgian ruby rings and pendants featured rose-cut diamonds, scroll motifs, and delicate repoussé work. These pieces are now highly collectible examples of antique gemstone jewellery.

By the Victorian era (1837–1901), ruby jewellery flourished as advancements in mining and trade increased access to precious stones. Queen Victoria herself adored rubies, and they became popular choices for engagement rings and sentimental jewellery. Victorians valued rubies for their symbolism of passion and prosperity—traits ideally suited for tokens of love.

Victorian rubies were often paired with pearls, turquoise, or old mine-cut diamonds in ornate yellow or rose gold settings. Mourning jewellery from this period sometimes featured rubies as a symbol of the enduring flame of love.

Edwardian and Art Deco Ruby Styles

The early 20th century saw ruby jewellery evolve in design and craftsmanship. Edwardian styles (1901–1915) embraced elegance and delicacy, often setting rubies in platinum filigree alongside diamonds. These pieces were refined, featuring garland and floral motifs in line with the period’s love of romanticism and nature.

During the Art Deco period (1920s–1930s), rubies were reimagined in bold, geometric styles. Often paired with onyx, emerald, or black enamel, rubies added vibrant contrast to striking symmetrical designs. Art Deco ruby rings, bracelets, and brooches are now among the most sought-after vintage jewellery pieces due to their distinctive aesthetic and exceptional craftsmanship.

Mid-Century and Retro Ruby Jewellery

Ruby jewellery continued to shine through the 1940s and 1950s, particularly in the bold designs of the Retro era. Influenced by Hollywood glamour, Retro ruby pieces often featured oversized settings, sweeping curves, and large synthetic or natural rubies set in warm-toned gold. These dramatic designs are now beloved by collectors of vintage costume and fine jewellery.

In the mid-century modern period, rubies were frequently featured in cluster rings and floral motifs. The popularity of ruby anniversary bands also rose during this time, reflecting the stone’s growing symbolism as a marker of enduring love. To this day, ruby is the traditional gift for a 40th wedding anniversary.

The Enduring Allure of Vintage Ruby Jewellery

Rubies have never gone out of style. Their deep, saturated colour and rich heritage make them a favourite for vintage jewellery collectors and lovers of historical gemstone jewellery alike. Whether found in a Georgian foiled-back ring or a bold Art Deco cocktail piece, antique rubies connect us to centuries of romance, legend, and craftsmanship.

When purchasing vintage ruby rings or estate jewellery, it’s important to consider the origin and treatment of the gemstone. Natural, untreated rubies from historical sources like Burma are especially prized for their rarity and colour saturation.

Conclusion

Throughout history, rubies have been more than just beautiful stones. They’ve symbolised power, love, courage, and wealth across cultures and centuries. Their enduring appeal in vintage jewellery is a testament to both their natural beauty and the timeless designs they have inspired. For anyone seeking a piece of jewellery steeped in history and elegance, ruby jewellery offers a perfect blend of past and passion.