Gemstone Discoveries

Alternative Diamonds: The Gemstones That Sparkle Without the Price Tag

alternative diamonds in vintage jewellery

Diamonds may be forever, but they’re no longer the only option. From vintage jewellery lovers to modern romantics, more people are turning to alternative diamonds—gemstones that offer the beauty and brilliance of diamonds, without the cost or ethical baggage. Sometimes called dupe diamonds, these substitutes range from rare natural stones to cutting-edge lab creations. But what makes them so popular—and which ones are actually worth considering?

A Brief History of Diamond Alternatives

Although the modern diamond engagement ring trend exploded in the 20th century (thanks to De Beers’ iconic “A Diamond is Forever” campaign), alternatives have always existed. In Georgian and Victorian times, paste (a type of leaded glass) was used to imitate diamonds in fine jewellery. White sapphires and colourless topaz also made appearances in antique rings. These weren’t considered lesser choices—they were often selected for their practicality, symbolism, or affordability.

As technology advanced, new options like synthetic spinel (early 1900s) and cubic zirconia (introduced in the 1970s) became widely available. The latest innovation, moissanite, emerged as a high-end diamond substitute in the 1990s, and it’s still growing in popularity today.

Why Choose an Alternative Diamond?

There are plenty of reasons people now opt for diamond alternatives:

  • Affordability: Traditional diamonds can be prohibitively expensive, especially for larger sizes or high clarity. Alternatives offer similar sparkle at a fraction of the price.
  • Ethical concerns: Mined diamonds have a history of conflict sourcing and environmental harm. Many alternatives—especially lab-grown stones—offer peace of mind.
  • Individuality: A growing number of buyers want something unique. Non-diamond stones often have a different fire or hue, giving rings more personality.
  • Durability: While not all alternatives match diamond’s hardness (10 on the Mohs scale), many are still durable enough for everyday wear.

Popular Diamond Alternatives Today

Here are the leading contenders currently making waves in the world of engagement rings and fine jewellery:

Moissanite

Originally discovered in a meteor crater, moissanite is now lab-created and loved for its fire—more than a diamond, in fact. It ranks 9.25 on the Mohs scale and has exceptional clarity. It’s the closest visual match to a diamond and comes in a range of cuts and carats.

White Sapphire

A natural stone with a long history in jewellery, white sapphire is a traditional alternative to diamond. It lacks a diamond’s fire (colour flashes) but offers a clean, brilliant look. As a corundum, it’s second only to diamonds in hardness (Mohs 9), making it durable for everyday wear.

Cubic Zirconia (CZ)

Often maligned as “cheap,” cubic zirconia is still widely used—especially in fashion jewellery. It’s flawless, affordable, and highly brilliant when new, though it’s softer (Mohs 8–8.5) and can dull over time. Best for occasional wear or low-budget sparkle.

Spinel

Colourless spinel is rare and often mistaken for diamond in antique jewellery. It’s brilliant, hard (Mohs 8), and usually free from inclusions. Natural white spinel is increasingly popular among vintage collectors and alternative engagement ring buyers.

Goshenite

A clear variety of beryl (same family as emerald and aquamarine), goshenite is a lesser-known but striking choice. Its brilliance is softer, and it ranks 7.5–8 on the Mohs scale. Often used in bespoke or vintage-style rings.

Quartz (Rock Crystal)

Historically used in Georgian jewellery, clear quartz is one of the most accessible diamond substitutes. It’s not as hard (Mohs 7) and can scratch easily, but it has a charming, icy clarity—especially in antique or handmade settings.

Topaz

Colourless topaz offers brilliance and sparkle but is more delicate (Mohs 8, prone to cleavage). It’s often used in vintage silver rings and can be a good short-term diamond alternative if treated with care.

Chart showing differences in alternative diamonds for jewellery
The differences between the various Alternative Diamonds

Final Thoughts

Choosing an alternative diamond isn’t about compromise—it’s about finding a gemstone that fits your values, style, and budget. Whether you love the extra fire of moissanite, the vintage charm of white spinel, or the affordability of CZ, there’s a perfect “dupe diamond” for every hand and heart.

As vintage jewellery experts and lovers of all gemstones, we believe the best sparkle comes from pieces with a story. And sometimes, the best story isn’t told by a diamond.